Wines

The 2021 Volnay En Champans 1er Cru has a very attractive bouquet with brambly, red berry fruit, white pepper and sous-bois scents, nicely focused with a subtle garrigues note. The palate is medium--bodied with depth, crisp and lively with a healthy dash of white pepper. Well-focused and harmonious, this is a fine Volnay Champans. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

From the importer:

Made entirely of organically grown Teroldego grapes, picked around the end of September; bunches are entirely destemmed, 50% of the berries are left whole; fermentation is sometimes carried out with indigenous yeast, sometimes with cultivated yeast, depending on the vintage. Fermentation and maceration take place in both wooden and unlined cement fermenters, for a total of up to 40-50 days. The wine is aged in French oak barrels of between 2,500 and 4,000 liters capacity and in unlined cement tanks for about 10 months. About 2,500 cases are produced.

Color is a gorgeous opaque violet-tinged purple; on nose and palate the wine makes me think of cooler-climate Syrah with hints of Cabernet Franc, very berryish, meaty, some Assam tea notes, some herbal notes, rusty/meaty hints, big but not at all bitter. Fresh palate, long finish with almond note.

93 Points! The 2017 Pinot Noir Altamont is a wine of real breadth. Dark cherry, plum, lavender, spice and hard candy all flesh out in the glass. Rich, plush and enveloping, the Altamont captures all of the natural intensity of the year. A touch of stems adds character, but is not especially evident. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

94 Points! Offering up an elegant yet bright bouquet, this 2014 Delamotte Blanc de Blancs opens in the glass with orchard fruits, verbena, lemon zest, pastry, and slightly reductive aromas. Chiselled and perfectly balanced, the palate is lively and intense, and expresses clearly the fruit and the straightforward nature of the 2014 vintage. Should age well for a decade or so. - Yohan Castaing, Decanter Magazine

94+ Points! Linear and focused, the bright straw-colored 2014 Champagne Blanc De Blancs is lifted with mineral aromas of chalky earth and flinty notes followed by green apple, powdery floral aromas, and lime candy. Bright and electric on the palate, its long, fresh spine of acidity propels the wine forward, with mouthwatering saline and a mineral-tinged backbone. A wine that commands attention, it has a fine mousse and is focused and long on the palate, with vibrant citrus. It’s going to have significant longevity over the coming 20 years. It saw 6.5 gram per liter dosage. - Audrey Frick, jebdunnuck.com

93 Points! A graceful Champagne, with fine length and focus. There’s a creamy plushness to the finely detailed mousse, which carries flavors of baked white cherry, poached apricot, candied lemon peel, brioche and ginger as they expand on the palate and through the well-cut, lasting finish. Drink now through 2035. - Wine Spectator

95 Points! The judges were all struck by the purity of Côte des Blancs specialist Delamotte, sister house of Salon in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger. President Didier Depond believes in the ‘freshness and poise’ of Chardonnay, which here comes entirely from grand cru villages (with just 8% Pinot Noir, also from grand cru villages of the Montagne de Reims). Based on the ripe 2020 vintage, with a modest 15% reserve wines, the class of the source material shines in this exemplary bottling. Tom Hewson: Very alluring bright cherry, honey and brown butter richness. Serious, with stony minerality, dried flowers and mandarin/grapefruit. Stunning. Eugenio Egorov: Fresh redcurrants, cranberries and apples, notes of tangerine and bread crust. Rounded fruit is balanced by lively acidity, with a light mousse. Victoria Mason MW: Nutty oxidative aromas, flinty funk, creamy white peach and lemon curd. This is complex and intense, with a vibrant, pink grapefruit, tangy freshness. Persistent and elegant. - Decanter World Wine Awards

95 Points! Reminding me of a classy Hermitage, the deep purple-hued 2020 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Des Grands Chemins offers up a brilliant perfume of redcurrants, blackberries, saddle leather, lavender, and bouquet garni. This carries to a medium to full-bodied, richly textured, balanced Crozes that has velvety tannins, some classic northern Rhône gamey, peppery nuances, and a great finish. It needs a decant if drinking any time soon, but the tannins are supple and ripe, and this beauty will have a broad drink window. I wouldn't be surprised to see it still going strong at age 20. Bravo. - Jeb Dunnuck

94+ Points! The 2020 Crozes-Hermitage Le Clos is tighter and more focused, with a more blue-fruited perfume of cassis, graphite, violets, and peppered meat-like aromas and flavors. The polar opposite of the broad, ripe, sexy Domaine des Grands Chemins, this stays focused and inwards on the palate, with ripe, polished tannins, beautiful balance, and outstanding length. Hide this for 4-5 years and it's going to drink brilliantly over the following 10-15. - Jeb Dunnuck

• Practicing organic
• 100% Pinot Noir
• Grapes from all of Mortet’s holdings in Gevrey-Chambertin (village + 1er Cru + Grand Cru)
• Direct press rosé
• Indigenous yeast
• Fermented and aged in stainless steel

Founded directly above the San Andreas Fault, DeRose Vineyards is located in one of the most active earthquake areasin the World. Furthermore, it is one of only a few wineries anywhere to have a major fissure dissecting its wine cellars. DeRose has vineyards on both sides of the infamous fault. Soils east of the break contain fragmented granite and crumbled sandstone while those on the west side are mostly granite and limestone. Some blocks lie precisely above the line, their tilled surfaces concealing the fissure far below. Cabernet Franc grows east of the fault in loosely packed loam where the drainage is excellent.

A temperamental grape variety in many locations, Cabernet Franc thrives on the DeRose estate, creating heavily extracted wines with wonderful viscosity. Winemaker Pat DeRose prunes each vine in the winter and later exposes the grapes to beneficial sunlight with careful leaf removal. Clusters are thinned after veraison to attain proper vine balance.

92 Points! Another wine from the producer’s 1915-1918 plantings, the 2020 Cabernet Pfeffer Dryfarmed Old Vines offers vanilla and raspberry highlights along a broad, generously full palate. The oak is present, adding a hint of char, but it’s integrated, and the tannins are softened by good acidity. There’s a touch of pink peppercorn on the finish. Drink now through 2030. - Virginie Boone, jebdunnuck.com

DeRose has a handful of ”old-vine” varieties on its Cienega Valley estate, but none is more exotic that a 10-acre planting of Negrette. These vines are even rare in their native land of France where records show only 100 acres cultivated in the Toulouse region on the Garonne River. Adding to the mystique, the variety was called “Pinot St. George” until the BATF changed its official name effective with the ’97 vintage.

Planted on their own roots in the 1880s, the old vines are dry farmed in gray clay-loam soils that contain large chunks of dolomite. This shimmering white mineral is mostly calcium, an essential element of good soil. Relatively young
in geologic time, these loose soils allow vines to extend deep and wide in search of water and nutrients. Yields average one ton per acre.

Cienega Valley is an elevated pocket in the Gabilan Mountains 1,100 feet above sea level. The region’s warm, dry conditions are quite agreeable to the thin-skinned
Zinfandel grapes, enabling sound crops to be picked late in the year without the threat of bunch rot. The Gabilan Range is high enough to protect vines from direct contact with the cold coastal air, but low enough to allow breezes to mitigate the heat of summer afternoons. Rainfall averages 15 inches per year while fog is rare. This temperate climate is well suited to producing rich red wines.

DeRose has 15 acres of Zinfandel vines originally planted on their own roots in the late 1890s. Dry farmed on steep hillsides in Cienega Valley, the head-trained vines produce highly pigmented grapes inscribed with a spicy mountain terroir.

93 Points! The 2022 Pétalos was produced with 85% Mencía, 10% white grapes and 5% other reds from over 90 hectares, 20% owned by them and the rest from 180 families. It fermented with some full clusters in oak and stainless steel vats and matured in barrels of different sizes for 10 months. It's clearly more Mediterranean, with notes of rockrose and other aromatic herbs, juicy and round, more fruit-driven, aromatic, velvety and very pleasant and easy to drink. It has 13.5% alcohol with a pH of 3.54. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

91 Points! A well-balanced red, with coulised black cherry and boysenberry fruit alongside light, supple tannins. Shows pretty notes of dried sage and violet, anise, tar and white pepper. Drink now through 2030. - Wine Spectator

96 Points! The bottled village red 2022 Corullón was produced with grapes from around 90 different plots and had a short élevage of eight months in barrel. It is 93% Mencía, 4% Jerez (Palomino), 2.5% Alicante Bouschet and 0.5% Gran Negro bottled at 13.5% alcohol. It's floral and aromatic, but compared with the more-austere 2023, it comes through as more generous, riper and a little gentler, with more fruit but with elegance and freshness that nobody expected during the torrid summer and harvest. It keeps the freshness and poise, with fine-grained tannins. 25,392 bottles and some smaller and larger formats produced. It was bottled in August and November 2023, as they had to stop for the harvest. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com 

94 Points! The 2024 Red Wine Evangelho Vineyard is bold, juicy and wonderfully expressive right out of the gate. A burst of dark red/purplish fruit, lavender, spice, rose petal and pomegranate makes a strong first impression. Carignane is front and center in this gorgeous, engaging Contra Costa red. Readers will have a very hard time keeping their hands off of this. What a gem. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

Own-rooted, 1890s-planted vines in over thirty feet of pure sand...

94 Points! Based on 100% Chardonnay and aged six months in stainless steel vats, the 2024 Chardonnay has a medium to light gold hue and offers exotic citrus, minty herbs, and subtle tropical flower notes that all define this clean, crisp, remarkably pure Chardonnay. It puts on weight and richness with time in the glass and is a terrific mix of both richness and freshness. This is a no-brainer purchase for those who love Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, and I love its purity. - Jeb Dunnuck

93 Points! This white’s sleek mix of ripe pear, ginger and pomelo flavors show striking restraint, coiled around a mouthwatering thread of acidity. Details of lime zest, white peppercorn and dried tarragon linger, along with a whiff of sea spray. - Wine Spectator

93 Points! This has a succulent texture, remaining pure and long throughout. Salinity, minerals and springtime blossoms stay taut alongside lemons and crunchy orchard fruit with a lingering kick of tactile melon pith. - JamesSuckling.com