Wines

An old vine field blend of Bouvier, Frühroter Veltliner, Grauburgunder, Grüner Veltliner, Muskateller, Müller-Thurgau, Riesling, Scheurebe, Weißburgunder, Welschriesling, Zweigelt.

93 Points! Cool and elegant, yet juicy and wonderfully fresh, this medium-bodied gruner vetliner has the garden herb and celery aromas of the grape. As lightly as this skips over the palate, and as crisp as it is in the finish, there’s very good substance here. It should stay fresh for quite a few years. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. Screw cap. - JamesSuckling.com

100 Points! An incredibly wide aromatic spectrum with all the stone and citrus fruits plus a slew of white flowers is married to an overwhelming freshness and vitality that sweep you away. Fabulous concentration, focus and finesse. The supercool, bright finish echoes almost endlessly. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

Grown in close proximity to the Danube, in sandy soils from Weissenkirchen, Durnstein and Loiben, this is a comparatively straightforward, approachable Riesling with a dazzling scent, very appealing. Hogl's main vineyards are the two great ones up the valley behind Spitz, the Bruck and the Schon, but he also has several parcels elsewhere in the Wachau. This lovely Riesling is a perfect example of Hogl's graceful style and the 2021 vintage shows incredible minerality and acidity.

99 Points! The nose is like diving into a pool of violets and discovering a wealth of earthy, spicy nuances. Like a great Cote-Rotie on ice but with only a few similarities such as incredible finesse despite very deep, fine tannins. The finish is like climbing a mountain, going and going until you suddenly realize you’re standing on the peak of Everest. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

97 Points! So floral that you think you’re standing in a garden on a summer evening! Underlining deep black-cherry and blueberry fruit. Really fantastic concentration and freshness on the medium-bodied palate. The fine tannins build wonderfully at the simultaneously driving and brilliant finish. Doesn’t want to stop! From 50 to 90-year-old vines in a vineyard with chalky soil, gently sloping towards the east. Limited production. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

97 Points! The fantastic violet nose leaps out of the glass before you home in on notes of gingerbread and dried thyme. There’s astonishing licorice and red-fruit intensity on the very compact, vibrant palate. As it flows, the earthy dimension expands, very fine tannins building to a breathtaking crescendo. From vines planted in the 1960s, ’50s and ’30s in an east-facing site. Drinkable now but best from 2027. - JamesSuckling.com

97 Points! The 2022 Blaufränkisch Ried Schwemmer is from deeper, calcareous, loamy soils on top of limestone, from vines planted in the 1930s, 1950s and 1970s. Tiny violet petal scents, small but fragrant, set the tone here, putting an aromatic accent on darker fruit. The palate comes in with poise, putting it freshness even before presenting its dark, juicy blueberry fruit and density with a disarming, self-evident matter-of-factness. This is fruit, rock, purity and poise, with exquisite freshness, structure and clarity. - Anne Krehbiel, MW, Vinous Media

From the importer: Blaufrankisch is the variety that has lifted Roland Velich and the Moric estate into the stratosphere of wine producers. The Reserve bottling is the estate's flagship wine, only topped by very limited old vine bottlings known as Alte Reben. Comparatively, the Moric Reserve is a cuvee of some old and middle-aged vines from the Lutzmannsburg plateau, every bit as fine and age-worthy as the old-vine bottlings, and showing sone extra freshness and liveliness that some of the not-quite-as-ancient vines at to the mix. A fine and velvety tannin structure is balanced by good acidity and minerality. Sour cherry and blackberry mingle with herbaceous notes, forest floor, and subtle salinity, truly satisfying and inviting Blaufrankisch, with a good and prolonged finish. Just delicious wine and likely one of the most balanced vintages of late.

95 Points! A hypnotic nose of allspice, cloves, cinnamon and summer flowers with touches of licorice and wild berries. Superfocused and energetic, this has the kind of concentration and energy that a red wine needs in order to age for decades. However, it also has a ton of berry fruit on the compact, medium-bodied palate. Very fine tannins drive the extremely long, linear finish. Drinkable now but best from 2026. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! Absurdly concentrated for an entry-level wine. Deep blueberry and black-cherry fruit fills out the compact and structured medium-bodied palate. Generous fine tannins and notes of licorice and baking-spice aromas. Long, powdery and fresh finish. This is a unique solera-type blend of several vintages from 2022 to 2012. Blaufrankisch plus pinot noir, merlot and zweigelt. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

92 Points! I like the peach and white stone fruit aromas, brightened by white pepper and salty minerality. Clean, balanced and medium-bodied, with distinctive gruner pepperiness yet nicely restrained. Drink now.- JamesSuckling.com

95 Points! The 2023 Riesling Pfaffenberg has subtle citrus and a darker aspect that disappears on the palate. The body is zesty, driven and energetic, with stony determination and citrus wings, grapefruit, tangerine and all the tangy stuff. Despite this soaring nature, this is anchored in stone. The 2023 is compelling, strait-laced, precise and oh-so juicy. Wonderfully dry. - Anne Krehbiel MW, Vinous Media

92 Points! A very fresh style of gruner veltliner with crisp pear, lemon balm and chamomile aromas, plus very lively acidity for this grape on the medium-bodied palate. Long, crisp finish with stacks of lemon zest freshness. Sustainable. Drink now. Screw cap. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! This unusual gruner veltliner is brimming with floral aromas and has a wonderful interplay of restrained creaminess, bright yellow apple and pear fruit and elegant acidity on the medium-bodied palate. Long, precise finish. Sustainable. Drink or hold. Screw cap. - JamesSuckling.com