Loire Valley

94 Points! The 2020 Franc de Pied is incredibly reductive when it was first opened and needed a lot of time and a swirl with a copper coin. If you can be patient ( 5 minutes with a penny in your glass, or your currency’s equivalent), It’s worth the wait. It reveals itself to be a richly fruited, savory style that fills the mouth with a balloon of chalky silkiness. The limestone element really shows itself on the long finish grained texture and sinew. As you’d hope from Saumyr-Champigny, there’s no sense of weight or heft. Detectable now but has the structure to develop over the coming two decades. - Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous

94 Points! Darker in its ruby color, the 2019 Laurasie is a pure Cabernet Sauvignon from almost 20-year-old vines on the stony Jurassic plateau of Fosse-Sèche, where yields are not bigger than 20 hectoliters per hectare. This is fleshy and concentrated yet pure, fresh and elegant on the deep, terroir-driven and beautifully floral (violets) as well as graphitic nose that is absolutely distinctive in its delicate, pure and balanced style. Black and blue berries, dark cherries, green paprika, pencil lead and herbal, wet gravelly notes lead to a medium to full-bodied, highly elegant, refined and perfectly balanced palate that exhibits perfectly ripe, round and juicy fruit with a firm but ripe, very fine and elegant tannin/acidity complex. The finish of this concentrated red is tight, intense and spicy, showing black berry and chocolate as well as graphite and coal with dark cherry notes. Irresistible and, in 2019, possibly the finest wine from Fosse-Sèche. The wine was aged for 12 months in concrete eggs. Tasted in January 2021. - Stephan Reinhardt, robertparker.com

94 Points! This has the structure and bitter-edged minerality to carry its weight and ripeness, with beeswax and white tea notes that overlay crunchy orchard fruit and pink grapefruit with peppery spice notes woven in. A lot of savory detail and acidity makes this superbalanced and very food-friendly. Drink now through 2035. - Wine Spectator

94 Points! Hailing from a warm vintage that was one of the best in what would otherwise have been a fairly ordinary decade, the 1985 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon is starting to take on a deep golden appearance, commencing to amber. It offers a gorgeous, suave texture and a very complex nose that's a touch oxidative but that adds a layer of additional intrigue: it's all nuts, raisins, walnuts, olives, warm pastry, cinnamon, cooked orange peel. It's round and sweet (95g/L) but not unctuous with richness on the mid-palate while retaining enough acidity to refresh the mouth on the long finish. A wine that is very comfortable in its own skin, providing a very relaxing experience.

Moulin Touchais produces sweet Chenin Blanc in the Coteaux du Layon appellation. The wines are most often late harvested, although in some vintages - such as 1997 - a high level of botrytis builds on the fruit. What makes the winery special is its late-release policy: the wines must spend a minimum of 10 years in the underground cellars beneath the village of Doué la Fontaine before release. - Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous Media, 2021