Burgundy

93-95 Points! The 2022 Pommard Grands Epenots 1er Cru bides its time in the glass, opening discretely with blackberry, redcurrants, briar and forest floor. Quintessentially Pommard, graceful and focused. The oak here is neatly assimilated. The medium-bodied palate has finely sculpted tannins, poised and very refreshing. There's good substance on the finish with insistent grip. This will need 5-6 years in bottle, but this represents a very classy, refined take on the vintage, a very sophisticated Pommard.

Winemaker David Rebourgeon lives virtually next door to Thibaud Clerget, and they have almost opposite personalities; Rebourgeon is more quietly spoken and perhaps introverted. Yet what they both have in common is excellent wines. That’s definitely the case in 2022, where I think Rebourgeon oversaw a couple of marvelous cuvées, amongst the best reds in the Côte de Beaune. “Everything was harvested by hand with a good ambiance,” he tells me after failing to remember exactly when he started picking. “I do both pigeage and remontage but did a little less pigeage this year. The alcohol levels are between 13% and 13.5%. The yields were not too high: We had half a crop in 2021 and one and half of a crop in 2022. The Premier Crus are all matured in 20% to 25% new oak. I am very happy with the 2022s. It was a generous vintage with fine balance and depth.” Readers should check out his tremendous Volnay Santenots and Les Caillerets – amongst the best you will find, plus a seriously good Pommard Grands Epenots. These classically styled wines don’t sing and shout, but their virtues stealthily creep up on you! - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

Wine-growing Burgundy occupies a continental, northerly position in France. This geographical location gives nature a great deal of power, imposing its law on mankind! Such was the case in 2021, when many parts of Burgundy were hit by spring frosts, considerably reducing the number of grapes harvested in September. Cellars and barrels were virtually empty over the winter. Normally, it would have been easy to buy Chardonnay juice in southern Burgundy to fill the empty barrels and sell the resulting wines in bulk the following spring. The integrity of the barrels was thus preserved.

Unfortunately, spring frosts made this impossible.  So another solution had to be found! One of the producer's partners referred him to a winegrower friend in the Alpilles vineyards. The ancient vineyards of the Alpilles are a block of limestone located between the Rhône Valley and Provence. Les Opies is the massif's highest point at 496 meters altitude. Summers are dry, with little rain and regular sunshine. The vineyards are under the continental influence of the Rhône Valley and the protective influence of the Mediterranean. 

This wine is a sort of “introduction” to the Côte de Beaune appellations produced by the domaine.  The meeting between the two winemakers is fruitful. The Burgundian is won over by this beautiful limestone terroir situated at an altitude of 400 meters. The Provencal hands over his Chardonnay grapes, which are cultivated and harvested according to the Burgundian's instructions, particularly with regard to fine management of the harvest date, in order to preserve a balance between freshness and ripeness. Vinification and ageing are carried out in Burgundy, in the same spirit as the domaine's other wines. 

The results of this technical and human adventure have far surpassed the simple objectives set at the outset in 2021. Today, this Chardonnay, produced in the Alpilles but vinified and matured in Burgundy, has a very singular character, much more akin to a white wine typical of Burgundy than a white wine typical of Provence. It's a singular Chardonnay wine!

94-96 Points! Tremblay's 2021 Echézeaux du Dessus Grand Cru is a hauntingly floral, ethereal wine, wafting from the glass with scents of sweet plums and berries mingled with exotic spices, orange zest and vine smoke. Full-bodied, broad and enveloping, it's deep and seamless, with a cool core of fruit, melting tannins and a long, floral finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

Maybe the finest Village level Savigny we've ever tasted (Leroy aside). This is spicy, textured, complex, silky stuff, like it was dipped in Vosne Romanee...

91 Points! Wafting from the glass with aromas of sweet red berries, rose petals, dark chocolate and sweet soils tones, the 2020 Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravières is medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with succulent acids, powdery tannins and an attractively seamless profile. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

Perhaps the finest 'basic' Bourgogne we've tasted in quite some time. But. of course, the sourcing makes it not so 'basic. This Bourgogne Rouge comes from a 1.19 hectare parcel within the village Chambolle Musigny. The vines are on average 25 to 35 years old. Dominique destems entirely and is very careful not to over extract with his reds.

In medieval French, « les mouches » meant bees. The south east facing slope takes a lot of sun that attract flowers and bees. Clay and limestone, stony and well drained. From vines planted in 1958, 1968 and 1986 at an altitude of 250/300m.

91 Points! A very restrained, indeed grudging, nose faintly reveals its combination of mineral reduction and citrus scents. The super-sleek and borderline painfully intense middleweight flavors are like rolling tiny pebbles around the mouth while the cuts-like-a-knife bone-dry finish is markedly austere. The mid-palate density is most impressive as the single digit yields are noticeable. I would point out that this is sufficiently austere as to not make for especially interesting drinking young. - Allen Meadows, Burghound

Les Levrons is downhill in Puligny-Montrachet next to Meursault. Levrons was a diminutive in the middle ages for hares of which there were probably many in the area. Deep in brown limestone with some banks of marl. The domaine has 60 ares here planted in 1947.

From Les Rechaux and Les Meix. The word « Rechaux » comes from a source of heat or simply warmth . "Le meix" is a word formerly used to describe a small plot of land just enough to feed a family. In the Rechaux it is deep clay and alluvium and in Les Meix, clay and limestone. Micor plots of 12 ares and 28 ares planted in 1961 and 1965 respectively.

The Domaine Berthelemot Puligny-Montrachet 2022 generally offers a bright, mineral-driven experience with notes of citrus, white flowers, and a subtle hazelnut or almond character. The palate is often described as elegant and balanced, with vibrant acidity and a creamy mid-palate, leading to a saline and persistent finish. 

99+ Points! The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with forest floor, crushed stone and a touch of sea spray. The palate is perfectly balanced with a deceivingly understated entry, before a wave of black and red fruit crashes over the senses. It is framed by supremely fine tannin, the intensity building toward a crescendo as it fans out. The aftertaste is unbelievably long, remaining in the mouth 60 seconds after the wine has departed. The best ever – simple as that. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

98 Points! Absolutely bursting with blue and red fruits, the concentration is deceptive here, as it starts out juicy and full of air, but after a few minutes in the glass you start to feel the weight and the texture, and this turns into an extremely serious wine with real tannic hold. Gorgeous savoury finish, as you get so often in the best Burgundies, where weightlessness is such a brilliant veil to the power behind. 55% whole cluster. - Decanter Magazine

98 Points! The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was wonderful from barrel but now it seems to have gone up another level. It has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful mineralité infusing the brambly red fruit. Wonderful focus and quite profound complexity. You could nose this forever. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins married with a killer line of natural acidity. Everything is perfectly proportioned in this wine, very persistent with layers of dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and tea leaf on the finish. Immense. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media