Penedes

The experimental yet profound Alta Alella (Cava) VRIACC ICL 2019 probably turned out shockingly better than anyone within this program had anticipated. It is a beautiful wine, organically grown (of course) and produced with the ancestral method in bottle for the second fermentation with no added sulfites. It basks in its complete lack of artifice, a clean, pure, intensely flavored result with soaring aromatics of citrus and white flowers, a fresh yet quietly concentrated palate and a length of finish that we only see from the best cava wines. It’s cava, but it isn’t, y’know what I mean? It’s something new and wonderful, and a joy to drink. Not only that, it’s a sign of GREAT things to come as these intrepid wineries, scientists and vine experts work together to make sure there are more and even more beautiful wines coming down the pike over the next few decades.

91 Points! The 2019 La Cuvee sparkling wine was produced with a blend of 55% Xarel.lo, 35% Macabeo and 10% Parellada from 12 growers that work a total of 461 hectares of biodynamic vineyards certified by Demeter. Fifteen percent of the wine spent one year in 300-liter oak barrels and then refermented and aged with the lees in bottle for 40 months and is sold with five grams of residual sugar. 2019 reminded them of 2013 and 2009, possibly the last classical vintage in the zone in recent times. It has a more developed nose from the longer élevage and is ripe and with more autolysis of the lees and with a little more noticeable sugar in the finish. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

From the importer: What strikes many as an unusual blend is fairly common in Penedes – aromatic whites made from a mix of “northern” and indigenous varieties. In the case of Gessami, it is a blend of the native Muscat (both Frontignan 35%, and de Alexandria 15%, which are grown by Gramona) and the non-native but heat-tolerant Gewürztraminer 15%, and Sauvignon Blanc 35%. Over a third of the cuvée is Sauvignon Blanc, which provides a fresh herbal lift and vibrant acidity. To ensure a balanced wine, the grapes are picked just as they reach ripeness to ensure plenty of acidity to balance the 6g/L of residual sugar that is retained. Depending on the vintage, either one or both Muscat varieties are used in addition to a small proportion of Gewürztraminer to boost the aromatics. Such a floral and alluring wine is fittingly named Gessami, which in English means Jasmine.

94 Points! From a dry vintage, with Cabernet Sauvignon vines planted on deep alluvial soils, winemaker Miguel Torres describes this as: 'A very classic vintage of Mas La Plana.' Black fruit aromas – blackberry, blackcurrant – some blackcurrant leaf, coffee and dark chocolate hints. Complex, layered palate, with mouth-filling black fruit, plum, liquorice, very elegant tannins and well integrated oak (18 months in French oak, 85% new). Very smooth and balanced, showing considerable freshness and finesse. - Decanter