Burgundy

95 Points! The 1990 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru is one of the highlights of the era. It has a disarmingly gorgeous nose with brambly red fruit, a touch of peppermint and sage, all exquisitely defined and gaining cohesion with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, glistening with vivacity and energy. Few 1990 Côte de Nuits have this sense of tension and the delineation on the finish is brilliant. Superb. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media, Jan 2020  

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92-94 Points! Perhaps the single finest Echézeaux I tasted this trip, this wine has it all. Explosive fruit, staggering complexity and profoundly long, spicy, velvety flavors, this wine clearly demonstrates, without fear of contradiction, that Echézeaux can produce wines worthy of grand cru stature. The fact that it so rarely does is not an excuse for those who make lesser examples. - Allen Meadows, Burghound, Jan 2001 

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97 Points! Loïc Dugat-Py continues to work on his version of Mazoyères, moving away from the massive, tannic style of previous vintages to something with much more precision and depth. The 2023 features charming blackberry fruit with a bit of bramble and earth – true complexity in an approachable format. The texture is supple yet still dense, and the length is truly impressive. The grapes are from a quarter-hectare parcel near the Aux Charmes lieu-dit; 90% are fermented as whole clusters, and the wine is currently ageing in cask (30% new). - Decanter Magazine 

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97 Points! The Mazoyères from Dugat-Py is delightful, if somewhat puzzling. In many previous vintages, I have qualified it as 'massive' or 'imposing', and I found it more tannic and slightly more rustic than the Charmes, where he also has vines. In the 2022 vintage, I found rather the opposite: silky and ripe, with a fragrant blackberry and pomegranate fruit scented with liquorice and rose petals. The texture was impressively dense, but the wine was approachable even at this age and gave the impression it should open up reasonably young. There is still plenty of tannic grip, but this element doesn't dominate. - Decanter Magazine

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96+ Points! The 2022 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is taut and mineral, unwinding in the glass with a typically brooding bouquet of dark berries and plums mingled with hints of rose petals, spices, burning embers and beetroot. Full-bodied, layered and concentrated, with lively acids, powdery tannins and a long, chalky finish, it will demand some patience. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

95 Points! The Mazis from Dugat-Py is profound, if not as expressively open as other wines in the cellar, yet there is abundant substance here. The aromas are spicy and complex, with an impressive depth of flavour to the black plum fruit and a round, supple structure. The grapes are from 75-year-old vines in Mazis-Bas; with the next vintage, Loïc will add a cuvée of Mazis-Haut from a sharecropping agreement. The fruit is fermented as 90% whole clusters; ageing is in 50% new casks. - Decanter Magazine

 

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96 Points! The 2021 Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru is less brooding than is often the case, no doubt thanks to the vintage. Wafting from the glass with notes of sweet red berries, wild plums, rose petals, cinnamon and potpourri, it's full-bodied, rich and layered, with a beautifully seamless, suave profile that means it's far from forbidding, even right out of the gates. Patience, however, will of course be rewarded. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

 

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91-93 Points! Derived from very old vines in Epointures, Combe du Dessus, Jouise and Les Marchais that produce tiny shot berries, even in a vintage such as this, Dugat-Py's 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Coeur du Roy unwinds in the glass with aromas of cassis and cherries mingled with notions of peonies and spices. Medium to full-bodied, lively and vibrant, with a fleshy core of fruit and suave tannins, it will offer an unusually broad drinking window by the standards of this concentrated, structured bottling. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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96 Points! This superb wine boasts a dense and lovely ripe plum and blackberry fruit aroma with plenty of depth and substance. The tannins are supple and not at all astringent. The grapes come from several small organically farmed parcels near the top of the appellation close to Chambertin, blended with a bit of Mazoyères. They are vinified 75% as whole clusters, with a very gentle extraction before ageing in cask (one-third new). For maximum pleasure, age this for at least five years from release to allow it to open up. - Decanter Magazine

95+ Points! The 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru reveals the same seriousness it displayed in barrel. Unwinding in the glass with notes of cherries, dark berries, orange zest and petals, it's full-bodied, layered and enveloping, built around a chassis of sweet, powdery tannins and animated by lively acids. While this is generally the domaine's most immediate grand cru, the 2022 will nevertheless demand a bit of patience. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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95 Points! The 2021 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has also turned out brilliantly in bottle, and readers will have a hard time choosing between this and the Lavaux Saint-Jacques. Bursting from the glass with aromas of peonies, wild berries, cherries, orange zest and spices, it's full-bodied, ample and multidimensional, with a broad attack that segues into a layered, enveloping core, concluding with a long, spicy finish. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

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Not really 'Bourgogne' per se but in fact some killer juice from declassified Gevrey-Chambertin vines!

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97 Points! Violets, roses, raspberries, and red cherries emanate from the 2003 Richebourg. Full-bodied, deep, and hugely concentrated, it is muscular, firm and displays the firmest structure of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti’s 2003s. Soy sauce, tar, chocolate, and dark fruits are found in its focused, audacious personality. Its impressively persistent finish is studded with highly present tannin. - Pierre Rovani, robertparker.com, Aug 2005 

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Amazignly rare due to frost, only bottled in Magnum in 2016...

Dark red-ruby. The brooding, medicinal scents of black cherry and licorice suggest an extremely concentrated wine. At once sweeter and even more tannic than the Echézeaux, conveying a powerful impression of extract but also uncanny cut to its dark fruit and saline mineral flavors. Finishes with explosive length. The impression of chewiness and solidity verges on extreme, and this wine is likely to need a minimum of a decade of bottle aging. Incidentally, both this wine and the Echézeaux will be bottled entirely in magnums. - Stephen Tanzer, Vinous Media

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93 Points! Domaine de la Romanée-Conti's 2002 Echézeaux came across as quite powerful, rich and deep, with sweet tannins and layers of round, generous fruit. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

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The 2021 Volnay En Champans 1er Cru has a very attractive bouquet with brambly, red berry fruit, white pepper and sous-bois scents, nicely focused with a subtle garrigues note. The palate is medium--bodied with depth, crisp and lively with a healthy dash of white pepper. Well-focused and harmonious, this is a fine Volnay Champans. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

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The 2023 Gevrey-Chambertin Village presents a pretty nose with a mixture of blackcurrant and raspberry fruit. Well defined with nicely integrated oak, it conveys a sense of transparency. Fine tannins frame the palate, offering raspberry and strawberry fruit with a dash of spice on the finish, which is more structured than I expected. Delightful. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

A slightly riper nose freely offers up its array of plum, dark currant and more prominent earth influence. There is more size and weight, if not necessary better density, to the sappy, dusty and complex finale that is noticeably firmer. This is a lovely Gevrey villages and worth considering. - Allen Meadows, Burghound, Jan 2025 

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Dugat's 2022 Bourgogne delivers aromas of sweet cherries, berries and petals, followed by a medium-bodied, bright and precise palate that's vibrant and mouthwatering. William Kelley, robertparker.com, Jan 2024 

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92+ Points! There are two barrels of Beaumonts in the cellars this year, one of which was new. This is a terrific wine in the making and will be worth a special search to locate in the market. The bouquet is deep, pure and very classy, as it offers up a fine mélange of dark berries, plums, a touch of venison, woodsmoke, fresh herbs, espresso and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish and beautifully focused, with a fine core of fruit, tangy acids, moderate tannins and outstanding length and grip on the pure and soil-driven finish. Classy juice. - John Gilman, View From The Cellar, Apr 2010 

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A discreet application of wood is present on the overtly pepper-inflected aromas of earthy and ripe dark berry scents along with a touch of the sauvage. The delicious, caressing and sappy flavors also contrast with the grippy, rustic and short finish. Once again, this robust effort is not particularly well-balanced and my guess, given the relatively easy-going mid-palate texture, is that this is not 'on form' today but may very well come together in time. With that said, for the moment it's pretty awkward. Allen Meadows, Burghound, Apr 2025 
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