France

The R. Renaudin Brut Réserve Non-Vintage spent an amazing 14 years en tirage in their cold cellar near Epernay before recent disgorgement. Incredible! The base wine for this 100% Chardonnay cuvee was from the 2010 vintage. Damn. And, of course, the usual 20% of the cuvee is reserve wine from an even older stocks. Crazy. The house does no malolactic fermentation so the wines have a naturally bright, vivid, green apple character that meshes wonderfully with the brioche-y notes from the extnded time aging in bottle prior to disgorgement. Learn More

Les Déserts is steep, sun-drecnhed vineyard overlooking Bué that borders Chavignol. This cuvée is a selection of about one third of the one-hectare holding— vines were planted in the 1990s on clay-limestone, "Terres Blanches" from the Kimmeridgian geological stage, rich in fossilized seashells. Manual harvest with strict sorting of clusters or parts of clusters altered or insufficiently ripe, 20% is vinified in medium-aged oak barrels of a wine, 80% is vinified in vats at a low temperature, indigenous yeasts and the lees are suspended regularly to feed the wine until spring. Bottling takes place in late-spring after a light filtration.

From the importer: This comes from all three communes where Lilbert farms vines. Typically it is made with three consecutive vintages and is aged on its lees for a minimum of three years beginning in April following the harvest. It's also made entirely from the first pressing; Bertrand's second press juice for all three cuvées is sold to Moët.

With the warmer years, Bertrand began to lower his dosages from the usual 6-7 grams to less than 5 grams, beginning with the NV based on 2014. The NV based on 2015 received 4 grams; the NV based on 2016 received 3 grams. The style isn't changing so much as the weather is warming.

Fermentation occurs naturally with indigenous yeasts in temperature-controlled cuves. Malolactic fermentation begins in the Spring with the help of the bacteria present in the lees. Wine ages on its lees for 8-10 months in stainless steel before bottling. Vine age of 15 - 30 years on clay and limestone soils.

93 Points! This firm, focused Champagne shows pinpoint balance, offering a fine, chalky texture to swathe the chiseled spine of acidity and support the tang of tangerine and blood orange peel, pureed white peach and raspberry fruit, almond biscotti, mineral and lime blossom notes as they expand through the finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Disgorged January 2025. Drink now through 2030. - Wine Spectator

92 Points! A well-spiced Champagne, with a subtle underpinning of roasted hazelnut enriching flavors of poached apricot, cherry glâcée, crystallized honey and tangerine peel. A spine of citrusy acidity and a touch of salinity animate the expressive profile through the creamy finish. Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2030. - Wine Spectator

From the importer: 60% Nielluccio (aka Sangiovese), 40% Grenache. "Electric light magenta, this wine’s beautiful hue catches the eye in particularly attention-grabbing fashion. Yves Leccia cultivates the bottling predominantly from Niellucciu, the Corsican cousin of Sangiovese. Bright, savory, and structured, this wine sinks into your teeth a bit more and leaves a strong impression of Corsican identity and flavor. I can easily see it accompanying an entire alfresco meal if desired, from briny anchovies and olives to grilled fish and vegetables to wild herb-rubbed and charcoal-seared meats.