Wines

A blend of Malbec from their three different soil types picked at different times within a 10 to 12-day span, it is for this that Laurent’s mid-range Cahors, Les Calades, is the most accessible and widely appealing. He describes it as the flagship of their range, “a pure Malbec with power and freshness that represents the king grape variety of our appellation on limestone, and the new generation of Cahors: more fluid, rich and balanced with a distinct and very present mineral and marine finish.”

Each plot has an average age of around 40 years (2023) and naturally ferments in separate concrete vats with 10% of whole bunches between three weeks to a month. Because Malbec already provides a lot of substance from its very thick skin, he does a single short pump-over every two days to preserve the hygiene of the cap of about 300 liters in total of the 50hl vat. After fermentation, the grapes are pressed and mixed with the free-run wine and aged for 11-13 months equally between Italian terracotta amphora, old 30hl French oak vats and six-year-old 225l French oak barrels. They’re lightly filtered at bottling without any added sulfites.

Les Moutons comes from Laurent’s favorite Malbec plot at the top of the hill on its poorest rocky topsoil on Jurassic limestone bedrock. This is where les moutons (the sheep) like to hang out the most, eating and fertilizing—“a sort of organic doping of the vineyards,” Laurent says.

“Les Moutons is destined to be my grand cuvée,” Laurent says

This 0.45ha upper plot in the vineyard always produces extraordinary wine from its 45-year-old vines, which he partially attributes to the plot’s spare soils and the regularity of sheep contributions. But perhaps the most significant factor is that it’s not made every year. Laurent’s vision for this wine is to have something serious and precise, and when the year doesn’t line up the way he wants it to, like 2021 and 2023, he blends it into Les Calades. 

Once the grapes arrive, half are destemmed and layered, “millefeuille style,” with the whole bunch clusters in a 30hl tronconic wood vat for around three weeks of natural fermentation with a control of between 12-14°C. The must is pumped over once per day until pressing.

Despite the notable beauty and class of the wine each year that it’s made, Laurent says that he’s still finding his way to fully realize his vision for this wine. In 2019, it was aged for 13 months in equal parts amphora, foudre and barrel. All of this 2020 was aged in 8hl Italian terracotta amphoras, and in 2022 it was four-year-old French oak barrels (at least from October 2022 to October 2023). As with the other reds, Les Moutons is not fined but passes through a light filtration, and has no added sulfites at any time.

With 90% of C’Juste composed of Gros Manseng grown on the large veins of white clay in warm-to-hot summer conditions and without added sulfites, we may expect its takeoff to be like the first throttle on the tarmac in a fast but chubby commercial liner; however, it’s more like (what I imagine) being pressed against the seat of screaming fighter jet during takeoff. We, for one, find C’Juste yet another impressive no-sulfites-added white wine that demonstrates what’s possible if done correctly in the cellar. It’s as inviting as it is electric, and once open the bottle tends to empty rather quickly.

Laurent describes C’Juste as, “a rich wine due to the typicity of Gros Manseng. From one year to the next, the Victoria pineapple side (a note not often found in colder and wetter climate Gros Manseng wines) remains the common thread, while the 10% of Ugni Blanc brings freshness and acidity—the lemon side on the finish. It’s for the meal rather than apero hour and can compete with a fine Chardonnay in terms of power and the freshness of a great Chenin Blanc.”

Once in the cellar, the grapes are first left for 24 hours in concrete to cool down, then they’re whole-cluster pressed before being returned to the same medium. At the end of the 10-15-day natural fermentation, the wine is racked off the gross lees into four 8hl Italian terracotta amphoras for 11 months before bottling. There is no sulfite added to this wine at any time, though the exception is the 2020 version. C’Juste is lightly filtered but not fined.

One of the best Cab Francs in America! From Leo: The Ascona vineyard is farmed by Ken Swegles. The sites that he and his team manage have become quite legendary, and continue to get better and better over the years. We are very excited to share this new release, aged in concrete egg and neutral French oak barrels.

This is an alternative label for the American market from an old Winex fave, Chateau Simian. The estate has been biodynamic for over a decade and the wines are super-balanced, this one bowled us over for the price. GREAT value...

92 Points! From a single parcel of 65-year-old vines, the 2017 Cairanne Col du Debat features subtle cinnamon and clove notes on the nose. It's full-bodied, rich and velvety, with plenty of raspberry and cherry fruit, plus attractive resiny notes of rosemary and pine on the long finish. - Joe Czerwinski, robertparker.com

La Escribana is a vino de pasto from the Pérez family’s holdings in the famed Macharnudo vineyard (La Escribana & San Cayetano). After a green harvest in early August to reduce production and provide a small amount of “green wine” for distillation or adjusting the acidity of the final wine, La Escribana is picked in late August and pressed into stainless-steel tanks for fermentation. It sees a year of biologic aging in 80-year-old botas before bottling.

This wine was born in the 70s and is the result of blending plots of schist and mica schist located around the family cellars. A beautiful classic from Muscadet Sèvre & Maine which tells the story of the Luneau-Papin estate with each harvest.

94 Points! A well-rounded. textural and succulent white with notes of fresh lemons, blanched almonds, sage and some stones. It’s medium-bodied with a mineral drive. Succulent green apple character, with a positive bitterness throughout. It’s precise, lively and textured with a salivating, floral finish. Drink or hold. - jamessuckling.com

93 Points! Prominent quince, white peach, vanilla, melon, candy, apricot jam, cedar and pastry introduce the 2022 Condrieu Invitare. Viscously textured and offering excellent purity of fruit, the 2022 is neatly balanced by moderate levels of soft acidity. Offering a little more ripeness and expression than the 2021, this complex 2022 Condrieu should drink well over the next three years. - Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous Media

94 Points! Stunning nose of ripe mirabelle with delicate candied citrus aromas. Wonderful mineral freshness that picks you up and carries you into the sky. So clean and bright at the long finish. From organically grown grapes. From the eastern side of the appellation with gravelly sedimentary soil. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

91 Points! A fruity and delicate red with sour cherries, blueberries, violets, black pepper and hints of smoke. Medium-bodied with finely grained tannins. Precise and fresh with crunchy berries towards the salivating finish. From organically grown grapes. - JamesSuckling.com

90 Points! This savory, gentle-styled red shows the hallmark of the leaner vintage. Wild berry and smoked meat notes cruise alongside dried herbs, crushed iron and white pepper. Harmonious and elegant, with well-integrated, salty tannins and a floral perfume. - Wine Spectator

From the importer: From 100% Merlot grapes grown at the foot of the inactive Amiata volcano, the San Vito wine exudes an aromatic and intricate character. Sumptuous black fruit aromas unfurl into notes of tobacco, graphite, and oriental spices, enticing the senses. On the palate, it is rich and silky, with well-integrated tannins that linger through a long, persistent finish. Dense in color, the wine showcases a captivating garnet red hue that releases sumptuous fruit aromas to the nose. Prominent notes of blackberries, cassis, and violets stand out, gradually unraveling into more complex nuances of blond tobacco, graphite, and a melange of oriental spices. The sip is impressive yet rich in finesse, with a silky body enriched by well-smoothed tannins that stretch towards a persistent, aromatic finish.

Tasted (consumed) recently, absolutely gorgeous! 2010 was a watershed vintage for Nebbiolo in Piedmont and this wine is a prime example hitting its peak drinking window, fresh, vibrant packed with cherries, tar licorice, spice. A joy...and a heckuva deal....

97 Points! A towering effort, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Vieilles Vignes soars from the glass with pristine crème de cassis, raspberry jam, black plum, scorched earth, incense, mint, exotic spice and white pepper aromas. The precision of the individual perfumes has a laser-like quality rarely seen in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Full-bodied and framed by ever-so-velvety tannins, it reaches a spherical dimension in the mouth. The recent adoption of 3,000-liter Austrian oak barrels beautifully contributed to the shape of this wine, giving it terrific poise and tension. - Nicolas Greinacher, Vinous Media

97 Points! One of the world’s greatest expressions of Grenache year-in and year-out, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Vieilles Vignes is all varietal that was brought up in larger foudre. This cuvée comes from the Charbonnieres and Les Esqueirons lieux-dits, which are mostly more sandy soils. Its deeper purple color is followed by a concentrated, medium to full-bodied, powerful yet elegant Grenache offering ripe cherry and darker berry fruits, notes of ground pepper, garrigue, and licorice, ripe yet certainly present tannins, and a great finish. Reminding me slightly of the 2006, which is drinking brilliantly today, it’s going to offer incredible pleasure over its lengthy life. Give bottles 2-3 years and enjoy over the following two decades. - Jeb Dunnuck

97 Points! Impressive depth of colour for the vintage, this is extremely round, fresh, clear and well-defined. Tannins are present and fairly strict in style, but they're ripe, and all in all this is exceptionally promising. Not huge in fruit or body, but well-balanced and precise. from 120-year-old vines planted on north-facing clay and sand lieux-dits of Charbonnières and Esquières. Fermented in concrete, aged in foudre. - Matt Walls, Decanter Magazine

Matthias Planchon is a talented and determined young winemaker, representing an old line of winemakers in Sancerre. He broke with the family tradition of selling his grapes to negociants or taking them to the Cave Cooperative in Sancerre. He took over the domaine in 2014 and, until 2018, collaborated with Alphonse Mellot by selling him his grapes. Alphonse Mellot confirmed his decision to work with organic and even biodynamic viticulture. The vines are located in Sancerre, with the superb limestone terroir of “Le Paradis” adjacent to the domaine's cellar. In total, the domaine covers 5.5 hectares, part of which is still sold to negoce Alphonse Mellot, leaving only 4,000 bottles of whites and 600 of reds bottled under the domaine's name. The white wines are bright, pure and intense in flavor, and after decanting reveal a rare saltiness and mineral-articulated length on the palate. These are wines built with a vertebrate column, the result of a huge amount of work in the vines to match the vines to the rock. Le Paradis brings the generosity of limestone, embraces the contours of the mouth and unfolds in length. Matthias vinifies 30% of the grapes in barrels of 500-600L, the rest in stainless steel.

99 Points! This amazing Morgon has incredibly deep roots, but is also a flower reaching out towards the sun. Breathtaking mineral brilliance and energy on the medium-bodied palate. This embodies the spirit of Beaujolais in an extraordinary, uplifting way. Pristine and precise finish that’s so long and so pure. Matured sur lie in oak casks. Bottled unfiltered. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

Trebbiano (45%), Malvasia (35%), Verdicchio (20%). From the importer: Produced in an entirely natural manner under the guidance of Giampiero Bea, the Coenobium is a blend of Trebbiano, Verdicchio, and Malvasia, harvested together and co-fermented without added yeasts or temperature stabilization. Aged on its fine lees in steel and fiberglass tanks, it is bottled just before the next harvest without fining or filtering. The nose is evocative of autumn on multiple sensory levels, with aromas of fennel fronds, chamomile tea, almonds, and tangerine that lead into a full but delicately rendered palate. Vitorchiano’s volcanic soils come through with a somber smoke-iron interplay, and glowing acidity lets the savory flavors coat the mouth, yet the overall impression is one of freshness and drinkability.

Sangiovese (45%), Ciliegiolo (45%), Merlot (10%). From the importer: A lovely, gentle, unadorned wine that is an expression of the monastic life of the people who produce it, from equal proportions of the grape varieties Ciliegiolo and Sangiovese (a clone similar to Montepulciano d’Abruzzo) cultivated in the area around the Monastery. The wine undergoes a 15-day natural fermentation without any forced stabilization.