Wines

Exciting find! An extremely polished, gulpable Madiran from south-facing 60+ year-old vines on clay limestone and gravel. Very refined tannins for the genre...

50% Petit Manseng, 50% Gros Manseng, south-facing exposure. 15-year-old vines at a density of 4000 vines/hectare. No chemical products and natural grass cover for every other row. Guyot simple pruning.

Wine-growing Burgundy occupies a continental, northerly position in France. This geographical location gives nature a great deal of power, imposing its law on mankind! Such was the case in 2021, when many parts of Burgundy were hit by spring frosts, considerably reducing the number of grapes harvested in September. Cellars and barrels were virtually empty over the winter. Normally, it would have been easy to buy Chardonnay juice in southern Burgundy to fill the empty barrels and sell the resulting wines in bulk the following spring. The integrity of the barrels was thus preserved.

Unfortunately, spring frosts made this impossible.  So another solution had to be found! One of the producer's partners referred him to a winegrower friend in the Alpilles vineyards. The ancient vineyards of the Alpilles are a block of limestone located between the Rhône Valley and Provence. Les Opies is the massif's highest point at 496 meters altitude. Summers are dry, with little rain and regular sunshine. The vineyards are under the continental influence of the Rhône Valley and the protective influence of the Mediterranean. 

This wine is a sort of “introduction” to the Côte de Beaune appellations produced by the domaine.  The meeting between the two winemakers is fruitful. The Burgundian is won over by this beautiful limestone terroir situated at an altitude of 400 meters. The Provencal hands over his Chardonnay grapes, which are cultivated and harvested according to the Burgundian's instructions, particularly with regard to fine management of the harvest date, in order to preserve a balance between freshness and ripeness. Vinification and ageing are carried out in Burgundy, in the same spirit as the domaine's other wines. 

The results of this technical and human adventure have far surpassed the simple objectives set at the outset in 2021. Today, this Chardonnay, produced in the Alpilles but vinified and matured in Burgundy, has a very singular character, much more akin to a white wine typical of Burgundy than a white wine typical of Provence. It's a singular Chardonnay wine!

François has two impressive plots in the renowned 1er Cru Les Vergers, one which was planted in 1987, and the other was planted in the 1950s. Both plots are located in the northwest corner of the Cru, totaling 0.46 ha, and border the 1er Cru sites of “Les Chaumées” and “Clos Saint-Jean.” Lequin’s Vergers is his most taut, vertical wine in the Premier Cru range; marked more by structure and acidity than fullness and creaminess. The Domaine Lequin Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 2023 was aged for 12 months in French oak (20% new) followed by 3 months in stainless steel to harmonize.

There are 19 climats which make up Morgeot and François’ rows are in “Tête du Clos” and “Les Grands Clos,” directly in the mid-slope and center of Morgeot. His rows in “Les Grands Clos” are directly opposite the Abbey ruins, across the small vineyard street, in the climat “Morgeot.” The vines in “Tête du Clos” were planted in 1971 and the vines in “Les Grands Clos” were planted in 1987. The Domaine Lequin Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2023 is spicier than Lequin’s Vergers and it has a broader palate as well. It displays a velvety texture and impressive length. This wine was aged 12 months in French oak (10% new) also followed by 3 months in stainless steel prior to bottling.

92-94 Points! Youthful purple. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes fresh black and blue fruits, star anise, olive, violet and tobacco. A smoky mineral accent builds steadily in the glass and energizes the spice-laced, dark berry liqueur, smoky bacon and floral pastille flavors that are underscored by a vein of juicy acidity. Clings with strong tenacity on the youthfully tannic finish, leaving behind sappy blue fruit, cracked pepper and mineral notes. - Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media

92-95 Points! Fresh pale lemon. Loads of energy here on the nose, but all perfectly balanced. Maximum minerals in this wine which Elsa thinks will be suppressed by longer oak ageing. More flesh than usual in the middle, with a fine persistence. - Jasper Morris

40% Chardonnay, 40% Poulsard and 20% Savagnin co-planted in the Val de Vallière gorge, on a slope facing the village of Montaigu. Vineyard tended biodynamically, Demeter inspection and certification since 2003: applications of horn manure, silica and herbal teas. Hand-harvested with sorting in the vineyard. The three varieties are slowly pressed together. Fermentation and ageing in oak barrels without any added SO2, with regular topping-up. No addition of yeast, sugar, or any other additives. Aged 7 months in barrel over winter, bottling takes according to the the lunar calendar, still without the addition of any SO2.

Coming from three different parcels near the northern Rhône (as well as some declassified Côte Rôtie), the 2021 Collines Rhodaniennes Les Lezardes shows the fresher, cooler style of the vintage yet still brings lots of character. Red and black fruits, peppery herbs, flowers, and a touch of game all define the nose, and it's medium-bodied, crisp, and balanced on the palate. - Jeb Dunnuck

95 Points! Rising aerial freshness, this gently hovers out of the glass, with a petrichor note on the nose. Light-bodied, but no lack of impact or intensity. Deeply textural, with a mass of ripe tannin, it finishes dry and saline. Great freshness and energy. Whole-bunch fermented with natural yeasts, followed by 16 months élevage in old barrels. - Decanter Magazine

92 Points! The 2017 Extra Brut Oger Grand Cru is powerful, deep and super-intriguing, The 2017 is not especially elegant nor refined, but it does offer quite a bit of intensity in a vinous, resonant style that is hugely appealing. Citrus peel, dried flowers, chamomile, spice, tangerine oil and light honeyed notes are all dialed up in this rich, heady Champagne. This is a terrific showing. Dosage is 1 grams per liter. Disgorged: February, 2021. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

95 Points! Such an exciting and radical gewurz with intense pink grapefruit character, but after a little aeration the rosewater and exotic fruit character of the grape comes through delicately on the nose. Powerful, yet so cool, dry and restrained. Then comes the extraordinary finish that has a freshness which almost knocks you off your chair. The final impression is of wet stone and very dry. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

100% Garnacha from the Dama parcel planted in 1903 at 650m ASL in San Martín de Unx • fermented spontaneously in tank • raised for 36 months in neutral 500L and 600L French oak 

93 Points! The first vintage released by Rafael Perez when he took over the estate, this is 100% Garnacha fermented in stainless steel and then aged for 24 months in French barrels of different sizes. It is a very pretty and elegant red with lavender and mint aromas reminiscent of the surrounding forest of San Mart¡n de Unx. The palate is direct with vertical acidity but enough generosity and juicy wild strawberry fruit. A well crafted wine. - Tim Atkin, MW