Wines

This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

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This is another stellar set of Champagne from Christophe Baron. The 2018s are simply lights out. Readers will note the addition of a new wine in this range, the Closeaux, which rounds out the collection of four pure Meunier Champagnes, all bottled in magnum only. Mignon and his cousins practice a decidedly Burgundian approach to winemaking. The wines are fermented in 600L Taransaud demi-muids (25% new), with heavy lees stirring, an approach Baron favors for building the wines, especially on the mid-palate and that allows for bottling with no dosage. As for 2018, Baron calls it a typical modern vintage for Champagne marked by climate change. “You better get used to it, because this is the future!” he told me emphatically. - Antoni Galloni, Vinous Media

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98 Points! Absolutely bursting with blue and red fruits, the concentration is deceptive here, as it starts out juicy and full of air, but after a few minutes in the glass you start to feel the weight and the texture, and this turns into an extremely serious wine with real tannic hold. Gorgeous savoury finish, as you get so often in the best Burgundies, where weightlessness is such a brilliant veil to the power behind. 55% whole cluster. - Decanter Magazine

98 Points! The 2018 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was wonderful from barrel but now it seems to have gone up another level. It has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful mineralité infusing the brambly red fruit. Wonderful focus and quite profound complexity. You could nose this forever. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiselled tannins married with a killer line of natural acidity. Everything is perfectly proportioned in this wine, very persistent with layers of dark berry fruit laced with white pepper and tea leaf on the finish. Immense. Tasted blind at the Burgfest 2018 red tasting. - Neal Martin, Vinous Media

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93 Points! Cristiano Garella turned out a compelling set of wines at Colombera & Garella. These wines offer a fascinating and contemporary look at Alto Piemonte. "Our Lessona comes from a parcel that would have never ripened in the 1970s," Garella told me. "Today, that cooler exposure is a positive." The wines are fermented in cement and/or steel and then aged in cask tailored to the size of production, with no fining or filtration. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous Media

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96 Points! With vines planted in 1992 in a cozy and protected position within the folds of hills above Gattinara at 400 meters in elevation, the Molsino vineyard is known to produce extra fruit weight, concentration and power. This is definitely the case with the Conterno Nervi 2018 Gattinara Vigna Molsino. Of the two single-vineyard wines made at this estate (the other being the Vigna Valferana), I'm giving the aging edge to this bottle and have extended the drinking window as a result. During my tasting with Roberto Conterno, he described this wine as having "broader shoulders" and "more bite to the mouthfeel." Those are exact descriptions, and I would add that Molsino shows special dimension, in terms of both width and depth, with red and purple fruits that spread evenly over the palate. The wine's finish is powered by tarry smoke and campfire ash that add vertical lift and length. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

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40% Corvinone, 40% Corvina, 15% Molinara and 5%
Rondinella from organic vineyards. Insane value!!

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96 Points! Aromas of cherries, dried currants, black tea and dried leaves. Some cedar and mocha, too. It’s full-bodied with lots of fine-grained tannins and fresh acidity. Tightly-wound. Seriously crafted. Pure merlot. Small production. Best ever? Try from 2025. - JamesSuckling.com

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98+ Points! Helms vineyard consists of five acres on gravelly loam, right on the northern edge of the Rutherford bench, planted in 1997 and 1998 to Cabernet Sauvignon clones See and 337. The 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon Helms Vineyard is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon and was aged for 21 months in French oak barrels, 100% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it rolls out of the glass with seductive scents of Morello cherries, blackcurrant pastilles and mulberries with hints of chocolate mint, violets and forest floor, plus a waft of cinnamon toast. Full-bodied, the palate has an ethereal weight, dancing with bright, vibrant black and blue fruits and a lively line of freshness, textured with beautifully ripe, velvety tannins, finishing long and mineral laced. Wow. - Lisa Perrotti-Brown, robertparker.com

99 Points! Sweet white chocolate with currant, plum and subtle hazelnut on the nose. Some other spices, such as nutmeg and cloves. Floral. Full-bodied with extremely fine tannins that go on and on. Beautiful center plate that is dense yet polished and fine and continues on. Exceptional. Fantastic finish. Drinkable now, but needs four or five years to show it’s true greatness. - JamesSuckling.com

 

 

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The Dragon cuvee from the Brand Grand Cru vineyard is from a micro parcel of particularly steep slopes and older vines in the vineyard. 

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94 Points! This is an organic blend of fruit from six MGA sites: Terlo and Liste (in Barolo), Ravera di Monforte and Mosconi (in Monforte d’Alba) and Gabutti and Baudana (in Serralunga d’Alba). The 2018 Barolo Via Nuova is fermented in steel and aged in oak according to time-tested local tradition. This mid-weight blended Barolo has a more prominent herbal or balsam signature at the back of red and purple fruits, licorice and pressed violet. - Monica Larner, robertparker.com

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95 Points! The 2018 El Cismático was produced with old-vine Garnacha from the villages of Villarroya de la Sierra and Cervera de la Cañada, four small vineyards. It fermented in open-top vats with 20% full clusters and was punched down by hand. They wine matured in second use 500-liter French oak barrels and some concrete for 13 months. As a lot of the reds are completely unoaked, this felt quite oaky and creamy, one that needs a little more time in bottle to absorb the impact from the wood. The wine is floral, expressive, showy and exuberant, peachy and juicy, with very fine tannins, with good acidity and balanced alcohol, harmonious, reflecting a slow and good ripening of the grapes. Most of these reds are showy and exuberant, not shy wines at all, generous and hedonistic. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com Learn More

93+ Points! The regular white 2018 Manda Huevos Blanco Carramainas was produced with grapes from the single vineyard that is mentioned on the label. There is a skin-contact version of grapes from this same plot, but these grapes were harvested 12 days earlier than those destined to ferment with the skins, as the aim here was to achieve higher acidity and freshness and let the lees rather than the skins be the ones defining the style of the bottled wine. This is 95% old-vine Macabeo with only 5% Garnacha Blanca, with good ripeness and bright acidity. It fermented after a slow pressing and one night of settling in 500- and 900-liter oak barrels, where it was kept with the full lees for two months. It was then racked into Flextank (plastic) eggs with fine lees and then matured for another 12 months. It has a Burgundian profile, going back to the style of the 2014, in a leesy and smoky style, still very young and undeveloped. There's also something that reminded me of old-style white Rioja. The palate is vibrant and has pungent citrus acidity. It feels like a white to lay down, as it should develop nicely in the bottle. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com Learn More

95 Points! A harmonious red that marries modern pomp with restraint and elegance. Full-bodied and lush, yet fresh and well-defined by sinewy tannins. Features flavors of pureed blackberry, licorice snap, herbed black olive and mocha that expand on the palate, with tarry smoke and loamy earth character. Best from 2023 through 2033. - Wine Spectator

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96 Points! More iron, ground pepper, charred meats, and tapenade notes emerge from the 2018 Syrah Block B, a rich, powerful, yet focused and elegant Syrah that does everything right. Offering plenty of chalky minerality, ripe, building tannins, and a great finish, this brilliant Syrah will keep for at least a decade. The wine is 100% Syrah that was mostly destemmed (28% whole clusters) and spent 19 months in 82% new French oak. - Jeb Dunnuck

96 Points! Deep, shimmering purple. Potent, primary aromas of ripe dark berries, incense, violet, mocha and exotic spices take on a floral element as the wine opens up. Taut and chewy in the mouth, offering densely packed blackberry, cherry cola, allspice, vanilla and floral pastille flavors that show fine definition and mineral lift. The floral and spice notes repeat emphatically on a wonderfully long, penetrating finish shaped by steadily building tannins. Aged in French oak barrels and puncheons, 82% of them new. - Josh Raynolds, Vinous Media

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93 Points! I found the 2018 Vinyes Velles to be quite ripe with notes of prunes and decayed violets, with 14.5% alcohol and a low pH, so the nose seems overripe but the palate feels fresher. It's 84% Cariñena and 16% Garnacha matured in 225-liter oak barrels for 15 months. Ripe and generously oaked. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

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96 Points! This is from hearty Barossa soil, offering rich blackberries, blueberries and licorice, as well as sarsaparilla and a coal smoke. The palate is saturated with ripe dark plums and blackberries and smooth tannins stack up nicely, delivering such intensity of flesh and flavor into the long, fresh finish. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

93 Points! Dense and concentrated, this red showcases clove, chai tea and bittersweet chocolate aromatics that mingle with a note of hot cast iron minerality, which adds an appealing high tone. Delivers dense, thick tannins and toasted herb flavors, which leave an appealing impression on the finish. Drink now through 2036. - Wine Spectator

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