Wines

99 Points! The late-budding and rather late-ripening Clos Saint-Urbain, in the very south of Alsace, meets the very warm and solar 2022 vintage in this wine. What a thrilling setting this is, the more so since August and September brought rather cooler conditions to this cooler but, due to its dark soils and stony terraces in summer, nevertheless warm terroir of the Rangen. Indeed, the pH level was rather low in 2022 (at 3.1) and caused a dry and tense Riesling that doesn't at all show the characteristics of the Rieslings around Turckheim or elsewhere in Alsace. The 2022 Clos Saint-Urbain Rangen de Thann Riesling opens very clear, pure, saline/iodine-inflected and stony on the flinty or smoky nose that represents the volcanic terroir of the clos perfectly or, as Olivier Humbrecht puts it, "Like a volcano fart." Powerful, rich and saline on the palate, this is a dense, highly complex and energetic Saint-Urbain that somehow combines the purity of Dönnhoff's Hermannshöhle with the concentration, power and mineral complexity of the magnesium-rich Rangen. The finish is very intense, dense and aromatic as well as salivating, with a great mix of tannins, saline acidity and perfectly ripe (apricot) fruit. Pressed slowly over 14 hours, this is one of the, if not THE, finest Rangen I have tasted from Zind-Humbrecht. (Loyal readers know that I had them all a year ago.) The 2022 comes in with 12.8% alcohol and is a wine to keep for many years. - Stephan Reinhardt, robertparkercom

98 Points! A new red in the "Fincas" single-vineyard range, the 2019 Finca Las Cerrilladas was produced with grapes from Gualtallary and is an intense and aromatic red with the wild profile from Gualtallary. It has 14.5% alcohol and is ripe and juicy, with very good acidity and freshness. It seems to me like there's more consistency in Gualtallary than in Altamira. They have 25 to 30 plots on the property, different soils and exposures, different ways of pruning, too; they deconstruct the property, vinifying everything separately, and then they build the wine through blending, like they do for all the Finca wines. Like the rest of their bottlings, they only use concrete and indigenous yeasts for the fermentation and aging of the wine, but here they use less full clusters, perhaps between 30% to 50%. There's a different tactile sensation from Altamira, and this is firmer, with more severe tannins. Here, the challenge is to avoid over-ripeness, and they have managed nicely. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com