Wines

50% Petit Manseng, 50% Gros Manseng, south-facing exposure. 15-year-old vines at a density of 4000 vines/hectare. No chemical products and natural grass cover for every other row. Guyot simple pruning.

Wine-growing Burgundy occupies a continental, northerly position in France. This geographical location gives nature a great deal of power, imposing its law on mankind! Such was the case in 2021, when many parts of Burgundy were hit by spring frosts, considerably reducing the number of grapes harvested in September. Cellars and barrels were virtually empty over the winter. Normally, it would have been easy to buy Chardonnay juice in southern Burgundy to fill the empty barrels and sell the resulting wines in bulk the following spring. The integrity of the barrels was thus preserved.

Unfortunately, spring frosts made this impossible.  So another solution had to be found! One of the producer's partners referred him to a winegrower friend in the Alpilles vineyards. The ancient vineyards of the Alpilles are a block of limestone located between the Rhône Valley and Provence. Les Opies is the massif's highest point at 496 meters altitude. Summers are dry, with little rain and regular sunshine. The vineyards are under the continental influence of the Rhône Valley and the protective influence of the Mediterranean. 

This wine is a sort of “introduction” to the Côte de Beaune appellations produced by the domaine.  The meeting between the two winemakers is fruitful. The Burgundian is won over by this beautiful limestone terroir situated at an altitude of 400 meters. The Provencal hands over his Chardonnay grapes, which are cultivated and harvested according to the Burgundian's instructions, particularly with regard to fine management of the harvest date, in order to preserve a balance between freshness and ripeness. Vinification and ageing are carried out in Burgundy, in the same spirit as the domaine's other wines. 

The results of this technical and human adventure have far surpassed the simple objectives set at the outset in 2021. Today, this Chardonnay, produced in the Alpilles but vinified and matured in Burgundy, has a very singular character, much more akin to a white wine typical of Burgundy than a white wine typical of Provence. It's a singular Chardonnay wine!

François has two impressive plots in the renowned 1er Cru Les Vergers, one which was planted in 1987, and the other was planted in the 1950s. Both plots are located in the northwest corner of the Cru, totaling 0.46 ha, and border the 1er Cru sites of “Les Chaumées” and “Clos Saint-Jean.” Lequin’s Vergers is his most taut, vertical wine in the Premier Cru range; marked more by structure and acidity than fullness and creaminess. The Domaine Lequin Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers 2023 was aged for 12 months in French oak (20% new) followed by 3 months in stainless steel to harmonize.

There are 19 climats which make up Morgeot and François’ rows are in “Tête du Clos” and “Les Grands Clos,” directly in the mid-slope and center of Morgeot. His rows in “Les Grands Clos” are directly opposite the Abbey ruins, across the small vineyard street, in the climat “Morgeot.” The vines in “Tête du Clos” were planted in 1971 and the vines in “Les Grands Clos” were planted in 1987. The Domaine Lequin Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2023 is spicier than Lequin’s Vergers and it has a broader palate as well. It displays a velvety texture and impressive length. This wine was aged 12 months in French oak (10% new) also followed by 3 months in stainless steel prior to bottling.

92-95 Points! Fresh pale lemon. Loads of energy here on the nose, but all perfectly balanced. Maximum minerals in this wine which Elsa thinks will be suppressed by longer oak ageing. More flesh than usual in the middle, with a fine persistence. - Jasper Morris

40% Chardonnay, 40% Poulsard and 20% Savagnin co-planted in the Val de Vallière gorge, on a slope facing the village of Montaigu. Vineyard tended biodynamically, Demeter inspection and certification since 2003: applications of horn manure, silica and herbal teas. Hand-harvested with sorting in the vineyard. The three varieties are slowly pressed together. Fermentation and ageing in oak barrels without any added SO2, with regular topping-up. No addition of yeast, sugar, or any other additives. Aged 7 months in barrel over winter, bottling takes according to the the lunar calendar, still without the addition of any SO2.

92 Points! The 2017 Extra Brut Oger Grand Cru is powerful, deep and super-intriguing, The 2017 is not especially elegant nor refined, but it does offer quite a bit of intensity in a vinous, resonant style that is hugely appealing. Citrus peel, dried flowers, chamomile, spice, tangerine oil and light honeyed notes are all dialed up in this rich, heady Champagne. This is a terrific showing. Dosage is 1 grams per liter. Disgorged: February, 2021. - Antonio Galloni, Vinous

95 Points! Such an exciting and radical gewurz with intense pink grapefruit character, but after a little aeration the rosewater and exotic fruit character of the grape comes through delicately on the nose. Powerful, yet so cool, dry and restrained. Then comes the extraordinary finish that has a freshness which almost knocks you off your chair. The final impression is of wet stone and very dry. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

92+ Points! The regular Branco has been renamed to 2023 Vila Romana Branco, which has a different blend, 82% Encruzado and 18% Cerceal and Bical; it no longer has Malvasia Fina, which was uprooted. It fermented in different materials and also for the aging, part in oak, part without. It has a clean and fresh nose, with notes of white flowers and fruit, with faint spice and smoke. It comes in at 13% alcohol, with a pH of 3.43 and 5.42 grams of acidity, and it's fresh and balanced, sapid and with a salty twist in the finish. - Luis Gutierrez, robertparker.com

From the importer: From three vineyards at the foothills of Chaintré: Les Chambardes, Les Pelouses, Les Jonchayes. The vines were planted between 1968 and 1985. Clay-limestone soils. Hand harvested. Fermented in thermoregulated tanks. The wine continues to age in these tanks for ten months before bottling. No fining.

93 Points! The king of the cellar chez Cornin is the 2021 Pouilly-Fuissé 1er Cru Les Chevrières, a lovely wine redolent of stone fruits, orange zest, pear, musky spices, flowers and honey, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and satiny palate that's lively, seamless and complete. Spared by both frost and hail, it's a great success. - William Kelley, robertparker.com

91 Points! The barrel-fermented 2022 Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills has vibrant scents of green pear, acacia, hazelnuts and beeswax. The palate is light-bodied and laser-focused yet offers a highly concentrated core of creamy fruit, and it has a long, nutty finish. It will benefit from a couple of years in bottle. - Erin Brooks, robertparker.com

92 Points! A fantastic balance of very zesty acidity and juicy fruit. I love the interplay of citrusy freshness and apples on the light-bodied palate. Elegant finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

Mostly from Oberhäuser Felsenberg and Kieselberg. Stony, weathered volcanic soils of porphyry and melaphyr, with slate and quartzite.

Fermentation & Élevage: A mixture of stainless steel vats and neutral 10+-year-old 1200L German stückfass from Hösch

The idea here is to make a village wine, basically, though it’s sold and marketed as a Gutswein or Estate bottled basic wine. The Estate wine combines the two major soils that dominate the holdings for the estate, giving the drinker a look into what Dönnhoff is all about. The basic wine is a calling card and thus Cornelius wants to make statement.

The geology of the middle Nahe is notably shaped by its eons-old clay slate formations and rich volcanic soils. The concentration of porphyry and melaphyre stone in and around the old Oberhausen vineyards – Kieselberg and Felsenberg, help provide the perfect berry base for Gutsriesling.

100 Points! This dry riesling has a hypnotic beauty that leaves no doubt how this wine redefines what peachy means in the context of this grape variety. As it aerates, a wealth of wild berry and flower nuances develop and expand. Given the mind-bending concentration of this wine, it is staggeringly fresh and absolutely precise. Then comes the finish, which is like a prima ballerina dancing on pointe off into the distance. Drink from release. - JamesSuckling.com

99 Points! Welcome to the Bladerunner of Nahe riesling Spatlese. This is also extremely fine and complex, with a cornucopia of stone fruit, exotic fruit and spices. Radical stony minerality and racy acidity, yet with a feather-light mouthfeel on the barely medium-bodied palate. Then you wonder if the wine will ever leave you, so long is the almost endless farewell. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

97 Points! The 2023 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese, grown on shale, has equal notions of moss and lemon. More air makes this smell simply of wet stone. The palate carries gentle sweetness but is absolutely precise and slender. Citrus frames everything with the clearest precision. Everything is serene, zesty, tender, yet so very serious. The 2023 is glorious in its lightness and disarming in its elegance. - Anne Krehbiel MW, Vinous Media

98 Points! When worlds colide. The tension between the cool, dark side (think Darth Vader) and the enormous brightness of the stone fruit (think Luke Skywalker) makes this astonishing riesling Spatlese extremely compelling. The most beautiful pineapple and grapefruit aromas. Fabulous freshness at the stunningly straight and pure finish. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com