Wines

95 Points! The 2021 Zerzilles is its usual powerful self, lying in wait like a lioness to pounce on her prey for her hungry lion cubs. It has a sudden spurt of power and energy striking through the palate. While light in body, it has innate power, masses of concentration and an electric charge of crackling acidity. This is a pup of a wine that's going to need time. - Rebecca Gibb, Vinous Media

95 Points! It’s really hard to believe that this is a 2020, such is the youthful energy of this extraordinary wine. I love the intense lemon blossom aroma in the nose. Concentrated, creamy and very elegant, this high-end Savennieres isn’t difficult to understand. Less fundamentally mineral than the very best, but still plenty of wet stone at the long silky finish. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.- JamesSuckling.com

96 Points! One of the great dry white wines of the Loire. This dry chenin blanc is rich and concentrated, but also graceful and delicate. Full-bodied but so elegant and precise, with a wet stone minerality that builds in a spectacular manner in the very long, refined finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold. - JamesSuckling.com

95 Points! The 2023 Vouvray Sec Le Mont is precise, upright and flinty. It's less immediately charming than the styles we've seen in recent warmer vintages, but it was only tasted three weeks after bottling—this is one to revisit. There's just the right amount of juicy, peachy flesh within this light-bodied yet concentrated wine. It has the potential to charm but does so without showing off. Flinty and tightly sewn together, it has curves in the right places, but you're just going to have to wait for it to take shape. - Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous Media

94 Points! Fermented and aged in a combination of tank and puncheon, the 2024 Chenin Blanc Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard Old Vines is concentrated, crystal-clear and most importantly, absolutely delicious. Lemon oil, ripe pear, chalk and white pepper blossom in the glass with real lift. Energetic and lively, the 2024 confidently marches across the palate. A rounded, lightly creamy finish wraps things up with a pretty little bow on top. - Billy Norris, Vinous

93 Points! Fermented in equal parts stainless steel and neutral puncheons, the 2024 Chenin Blanc Ernesto Wickenden Vineyard is a beautiful representation of the variety sourced from vines planted in 1966. It opens with an airy, ethereal bouquet that gradually blossoms with dried jasmine, tangerine, crushed stone and citrus peel aromas. The palate is broad, textural and glossy yet enlivened with invigorating acidity that runs through the vibrant, mouthwatering finish. - Matthew Luczy, robertparker.com

93 Points! Warm slate, lemon flesh and pith, hard apples, chamomile and white tea are nervy and long in this brisk chenin blanc, the concentration of fruit and savory notes making for a fascinating expression of the variety. As lively and mouthwatering as it is right now, there is a bright midterm future ahead as well. Drink or hold. - James Suckling.com

94 Points! This has the structure and bitter-edged minerality to carry its weight and ripeness, with beeswax and white tea notes that overlay crunchy orchard fruit and pink grapefruit with peppery spice notes woven in. A lot of savory detail and acidity makes this superbalanced and very food-friendly. Drink now through 2035. - Wine Spectator

94 Points! Hailing from a warm vintage that was one of the best in what would otherwise have been a fairly ordinary decade, the 1985 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon is starting to take on a deep golden appearance, commencing to amber. It offers a gorgeous, suave texture and a very complex nose that's a touch oxidative but that adds a layer of additional intrigue: it's all nuts, raisins, walnuts, olives, warm pastry, cinnamon, cooked orange peel. It's round and sweet (95g/L) but not unctuous with richness on the mid-palate while retaining enough acidity to refresh the mouth on the long finish. A wine that is very comfortable in its own skin, providing a very relaxing experience.

Moulin Touchais produces sweet Chenin Blanc in the Coteaux du Layon appellation. The wines are most often late harvested, although in some vintages - such as 1997 - a high level of botrytis builds on the fruit. What makes the winery special is its late-release policy: the wines must spend a minimum of 10 years in the underground cellars beneath the village of Doué la Fontaine before release. - Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous Media, 2021